Each table is supplied by the club and are built to the same standards:

  • Each table is 36” from the floor to the top of the table.  Sizes include:
    • 40×30
    • 40×40
    • 60×10
    • 60×20
    • 60×30
    • 60×40 (most common size)
    • 80×20
  • A routed baton is connected to the front of the module table using up to four screws depending on the size of the baton. The 1” routed out slot in the back is the holder for the Plexiglas (see Plexiglas standard).
  • Each baton will have a 1½” Velcro strip the length of the baton glued, screwed, and stapled to the front top of the baton. This is to connect the cloth skirting to the baton.

If you would like to build your own tables, here are instructions for how to build a 60×40 club table.


  • 60 3/8” x 40 ¼” x 3/8 thick plywood – sanded on one side
  • 60 3/8 x 1 x 3 select pine – 2 pcs. (actually measures ¾” wide x 2 ½” high)
  • 38 ¾” x 1 x 3 select pine – 4 pcs. (actually measures ¾” wide x 2 ½” high)
  • 32” x 1 x 1 ¾” select pine – 2 pcs. (actually measures ¾” wide x 1 ½” high) – 45 degree cut at both sides
  • 7” x 1” x 3” select pine – 8 pcs. (actually measures ¾” wide x 2 ½” high) – 45 degree cut on one side – use drops for
  • 1 ½” bannister material – 20” – double if you intend to have two handles like some of the newer club tables.
  • 7/8” dowel rod – four feet
  • 1 5/8” drywall screws  – large box (you can use wood screws, but they are usually more expensive and come in small packages of 50)
  • #8 x ¾” wood screws – small package
  • Wood glue
  • Folding Game Table Legs – 4 pack – item #22873
  • Felt feet – pack of four – like these from Home Depot.


  • Drill (or 2, see below)
  • Impact driver (you can use a drill, but it’s easier if you don’t have to keep changing out the bit)
  • Level/straight edge
  • tape measure/ruler
  • Circular saw
  • Counter-sink bit
  • Clamps – 4, or more
  • Various drill bit
  • Bench vice
  • Awl
  • Hammer
  • Saw horses
  • Bessey Angle Clamp – – Item #49957 – can use other methods, but this is by far the easiest tool have used
  • Palm sander – to run over edges once done.

Steps in process

  1. Purchase all materials and if need be, have Home Depot cut the plywood down to fit in your car.   Do not have them do a final cut, just have them get two inches from where you need to be, then do the final cuts at home.
  2. The 1 x 3 and 1 x 1 ¾” come in lengths of six and eight feet.   Figure what is most economical and buy that, then cut at home.
  3.  Start by cutting the plywood to size and place on your saw horses.  The saw horses work best if you can suspend some 2 x 4 between them for support.
  4. Then cut your side supports (1 x 3 material) to size.
  5. With the plywood sanded side down, build the frame using the Bessey clamp.   Use two 1 5/8” drywall screws in each corner.   Pre-drill the holes with the counter-sink bit.
  6. Once complete, line up one edge with the edge of the plywood, clamp it down, and then move the rest of the frame until it is square.
  7. Clamp the rest of the sides down and flip the plywood and frame over.  So the sanded side is facing up.
  8. For ease of use, measure in from the edge ¾”, then draw a line on all four sides so you know how wide the sides are under the plywood.   This will make it easier when drilling pilot holes to secure the top to the frame.
  9. I put in a 1 5/8” screw every 5” around the frame on all four sides.   That seems to prevent warping of the top the best.
  10. Once complete, flip the assembly over so the sanded side is facing down again.
  11. Now you have to build the center supports.  Take the two remaining 38 ¾” x 1 x 3 select pine pieces and measure 1 ¼” in from the edge. Draw a line on each end, then with a straight edge, draw a center line down both pieces.
  12. Now measure in 5” and drill a pilot hole through the piece.   Continue that every five inches for seven holes.
  13. Now take the two 32” x 1 x 1 ¾” select pine with the 45 degree cuts at either end and set them on the center line of the two 38 ¾” x 1 x 3 select pine pieces. Make sure there is 2 1/2” on either side of the 38 ¾” x 1 x 3 select pine.  Clamp them together, turn them over and secure the one to the other with seven screws.   These are your center supports.
  14.  Now measure in from the short edge of the table 20” and mark the spot on either side of the table.  Do this for both ends.   Now line up your center line on the 38 ¾” x 1 x 3 select pine pieces with the two marks that you just made.   Hold the support assembly down and screw in two 1 5/8” screws at either end of the support.  Do this for both sides.
  15. Once complete, flip the table over and secure the supports from the top.   Again, it will be easiest if you run a center line across the tables so you know where to pre-drill.  I would start your first whole six inches in and then every five inches after that so it off-sets the screws connecting the two pieces of the support assembly together.
  16. Once complete, measure 20 1/8” in from the edge of the table on both supports and mark.
  17. Measure the distance between the two supports and then cut the 1 ½” bannister material to size for one piece.   If you are doing two handles, measure 15” in from either side, mark, and then cut two pieces of bannister material.
  18. Pre-drill the hole and screw in one screw on either side the two supports holding the bannister/handle in place.
  19. Now take the eight 7” x 1” x 3” select pine with the 45 degree cuts on one side and secure them two at a time in the corners of the table.   The 3” side will be against the plywood.   These are to raise the leg hinges so they clear the two supports when closing.
  20. Secure each piece with two 1 5/8” screws from the outside of the table frame.
  21. Now, take the 7/8 rod and cut it into four equal sections – about a foot long each.
  22. Secure one pre-cut piece of dowel in the bench vice in the vertical position.
  23. Using the awl, center the awl on the end of the dowel and tap with a hammer for a starting point for the drill.
  24. Using the drill bit asked for on the packaging of the felt feet (this varies), wrap the drill bit with a piece of masking tape 1” in from the tip.   Drill straight into the dowel until you hit the masking tape.
  25. Now squeeze a couple drops of wood glue into the hole and tap in the female part of the felt foot – then screw in the male part of the foot.   Repeat this for all four dowel sections.
  26. Now unpack the legs from Rockler.   Measure from the bottom of the leg 1” and 4” and mark.
  27. Now take the awl and a hammer and make a slight indentation at those measured spots.   Now take an 1/8” drill bit and drill a hole in both locations.  Do this for all four legs.
  28. Once complete, insert the dowel so that 5 7/8” of the dowel is sticking out of the leg.  Screw in place with the two #8 x ¾” wood screws.  Do this for all four legs.  Check the math on this.   The idea is for the leg with the felt foot fully screwed in to be at 35 ¾” measured from the table top.   That gives ¼” for adjustment to be up to the Club recommended height of 36” for a table height
  29. Place the four legs in the four corners of the table.   One by one unfold the legs so they are in the open position – feet in the air.
  30. With the screws included, secure each leg to the table frame with four screws – two on each side of the leg bracket.
  31. Once complete, turn the table over, place on the floor, and sand the edges of the table to make sure there are no splinters or loose plys (bits of wood) that might injure you, or someone else.
  32. Make sure all screws are fully seated as LEGO will catch on them and/or the tables won’t fully be flush on the sides when trying to clamp together.